I know a guy

Knowing someone in this part of the world has always been part of this culture. It is the currency that undergirds all transactions. Going to the butcher is a relational endeavor. You go to the shop of the family your family has known for generations. Need to rent a car? Someone will “know a guy” who you can trust to give you a good deal. Even when buying something as straight forward as purchasing a SIM card for your phone, the connection will be through a friend.

Today, it was not lost on me what a difference it makes to have someone in the know when you are visiting, of all places, a holy church.

woman at the well

The Church of Photini in Nablus is one of my favorites in the West Bank. This is the location of Jesus’ encounter with the Samaritan woman at the well. As one of the first evangelists, she tells others about her conversation with Jesus and many in her village come to faith in Christ. This is astonishing not only because the woman may have had a rather damaged reputation but also because the Samaritans were enemies of the Jews – two very valid reasons for her fellow villagers to reject not only her testimony but to doubt the credibility of the One who was offering living water.

When you walk into the church, the first things you notice are the stunning icons that beautify the walls. The colors are vibrant, engaging, and you want to lose yourself in each and every one of them. Unlike so many Orthodox churches that sport only one female figure - the Virgin Mary – this church is filled with images of women throughout. It is like a who’s who of biblical women. There are stained glass windows of the Rachel and Deborah, among others, as well as multiple icons of the woman at the well. What a delightful and meaningful reminder that God has always chosen women to serve in extraordinary ways.

Abuna Justinus

Father Justinus is the Orthodox priest who has served this church since 1980. He may not be a man of many words but he is a man of extraordinary vision and talent. He was appointed to serve here following the tragic death in 1979 of the previous priest, St. Philoumenos, who was murdered while defending the church against Jewish fanatics who wanted to claim it for Israel. Long before Jesus’ time, Genesis records that Abraham's grandson, Jacob, dug this well making this site holy to the Jews. When Father Justinus arrived, he realized something beautiful needed to be created on this spot. Amid the crumbling structure that surrounded the ancient well, he rebuilt the magnificent church, painted all the icons that adorn the walls, and created the mosaics that cover the floors and walkways.

So what does this have to do with “knowing a guy?” In the past 18 months, I have been to the church many times. I first saw it with my dear pastor colleagues while on sabbatical. I visited here often with friends from Jerusalem. I took my kids to see it when they were here at Christmas time. I’ve added this stop to my pilgrimage programs. And last week, I brought our small band from First Pres who were here for the Christ at the Checkpoint conference. Every time I enter the church, I have tried to speak to Father Justinus to thank him for what he has done in the church. Most of the time, he either hides out in workshop or quietly ignores me.

one of the many images of biblical women

So today, just 10 days after I was last here, I arrived at the church with my pilgrimage group from the Philippines. This time, I had Iyad, my dear friend and tour guide, with me. To my surprise, the Father greeted me like an old friend, even made a joke about how tall I am. You see, Iyad has known this priest since he was a little boy. The affection that they share is as obvious as it is endearing. So Father Justinus warmly welcomed us and off we went down to the well where we sipped the living water from the very same well where Jesus offered living water. Usually forbidden, the good Father allowed us to take photos. And on the way out, he told another joke about short and tall people. Laughing and smiling, he was clearly enjoying the conversation. It was a delightful connection.

Knowing someone, or better yet, being known by someone is one of the gifts we give to one another. But the greatest gift is when we are known and, despite our shortcomings, we are loved. The woman at the well experienced this kind of love from Jesus. Transformed, she enlarged the circle by vouching for our Lord until others experienced that love as well. Because she knew, or more accurately was known by someone, her story invites people to embrace Jesus even to this day.

Today, at that same well, I touched one aspect of that fragile and loving circle. All this was possible because, after all, “I know a guy.”

with Iyad at Jacob's Well