some things never change

What is it about this place that touches my soul so deeply? On today's inaugural crossing of the checkpoint into Bethlehem, I immediately saw my friend Khalil. You may remember my sabbatical story about his selling coffee to me almost everyday when I crossed into Jerusalem. There he was, a smile on his face and arms wide open in welcome when he saw me. I was in the West Bank for less than 30 seconds and I already had my first dinner invitation! Soon a small crowd of vendors surrounded my car but Khalil shooed them away. This is my friend, he said, not a tourist. 

After exchanging numbers, I was making my way down the familiar entrance to Bethlehem. I needed to get my phone activated, exchange money and begin calling a few locals to see when we might get together. This place is so familiar and yet I know it will never be as it was when I lived here on sabbatical. So it was not that unexpected that my drive through town revealed signs of increasing municipal decay as well as the completion of a new shiny building or two.  

This morning, the 4:45 am call to prayer shocked me out of my jet-lagged slumber. Somehow I had forgotten about this ancient Muslim practice and had left my hotel window open. Nothing like a megaphone to remind you that each and every day here starts well before the sun comes up. Despite the intentions of the local muezzin, I'm afraid prayer was not my first response. And now, mid-morning, as I sip my coffee from the brand new Singer Café in Beit Sahour, the Friday sermon emanating from the local mosque has fractured my writing zen. 

Of course the changes I care about the most are those experienced by those who live here. No surprise that the rest of the weekend will be filled with reunions with friends. It will be wonderful to sit with them and hear the latest. While many things are fluid here, one thing stays the same. There is always news and friendship to share over a good cup of coffee. And whether from the checkpoint, a new coffee shop, or better yet, in the living room of good friends, there is a lot of life to share.  I’m eager to catch up.