The Shraideh Family

Since 2010, I’ve had a variety of experiences in the West Bank. My first forays were as a tourist, parachuting into one or two holy sites before decamping to Jerusalem. During my 2012 sabbatical, I was a short-term resident where I muddled through life in Bethlehem in an attempt to experience and understand Palestinian culture with the obvious constraint of being a non-Arabic speaking American. My current plans for visiting my beloved Palestine include leading periodic pilgrimages which affords me the opportunity to extend my time there for a week or two. Although my residential status seems to often change, one thing remains consistent: the generous hospitality of the Palestinian people.

Suliman and Hilda Shraideh

This past March, I was in the Holy Land for a full month, attending a conference, leading a pilgrimage, and lingering for a week's vacation. During my time off, I ventured to the northern part of the West Bank where the Shraideh family warmly welcomed me. On a couple of occasions, I had briefly met Hilda and Sulieman when passing through Nablus with a pilgrimage group. Their home is situated on an unusually beautiful piece of property in the heart of this thriving city. Olive and fruit trees dot the property along with beehives, herb gardens, and a handful of cats. How could I decline the invitation to relax amid such beauty and eat from the produce of their land? With assurances that I wasn’t imposing on them, I headed off to Nablus to soak in a bit of love from this Palestinian family.

fresh bread right out of the oven

bread baking in the oven

The next few days were filled with all sorts of fun and family. A trip to the age-old souq introduced me to the wonders of freshly baked pita bread. No surprise that the bread sells out as fast as it is baked. What fascinated me was watching Hilda check the quality of the bread as it came out of the oven. If it was not the perfect texture, it went back in to bake for a few more moments. This was artisan baking AND buying at its best!

It was wonderful to see Nablus through the eyes of locals. Ihab, Hilda and Sulieman’s oldest son, gave me wonderful tour of the city. Starting with the older section of the Christian neighborhood of Rafidiya, I saw the remains of the Shraideh's former family home on property that has been theirs for hundreds of years. How typical that their house was next to both the church and the village olive press. We then wandered through the ancient alleyways of Nablus, walking under its antique arches as we explored its abandoned gardens and gates. Transported to another time and place, the "modern" spice markets and Turkish baths were a contiguous link to these remnants of the past.

Old City Nablus

Cooking and eating are a big part of Palestinian hospitality. What I love about Palestine is that all the food is local and seasonal. At the Shraideh home, it also means the herbs and produce are harvested moments before being prepared and cooked! Hilda is an extraordinary chef who, as far as I’m concerned, should have her own cooking show on TV. And while she taught me how to cook a few Palestinian favorites, the tradition I’ve brought home with me is stopping for tea in the afternoon. The Palestinian innovation is adding a bit of sage (along with a touch of sugar) to Lipton tea. You should try it sometime. It is wonderful.

Sahar and Ihab Shraideh with their children 
Noor, Sulieman,  and baby Jad
on Easter Sunday

While I loved seeing the sites and enjoyed the great food, the memories I will cherish most involve the children. Like many Palestinian families, the Shraideh home includes many generations. Ihab’s young son and daughter were my treasured playmates. I enjoyed their kisses and hugs before bedtime and loved seeing them in the morning. It seems that kids find ways to communicate even when a common language isn’t shared. At first, Sulieman and Noor were shy around me but they soon forgot to be self-conscious and began to play. My I-Phone camera became a fun way for us to share experiences. It is astonishing how fast they master the technology. And I so enjoyed being with their mother and the new baby, Jad. Sahar is wise woman who I am eager to get to know better on future trips.



Hilda and Sulieman represent the heart and soul of Palestine to me. They opened their home and welcomed me like family. I'm sure many of you who follow my blog have realized that they are also the parents of my good friend and treasured tour guide, Iyad. Like father, like son. I am so grateful to and for the entire Shraideh family for their kindness and friendship. 

Before leaving the country, I found myself back in Bethlehem for a day of meetings. At one, a prominent Palestinian church leader asked me where I had been on vacation.  When I told him that I had been in Nablus, he looked at me incredulously and then burst out laughing. He told me he had never heard of an American vacationing there. What a tragedy! Let me go on the record and encourage all my American friends - go to Nablus! It is amazing! And if you can, visit the Shraideh family of Rafidiya. You could not ask for more generous and wonderful people! When you are there, give them a hug and tell them Debbie says hi!